By Bill Sanders
Olive Oil Times Contributor

Because there are no federal standards for extra virgin olive oil in the United States, our country has become the dumping ground of inferior, adulterated olive oils from Europe. The words “extra virgin” offer no quality guarantee. A label containing this renowned phrase can be slapped on a bottle of spring water or soda pop and sold as extra virgin olive oil. Is this an illegal activity? No, except perhaps in California. Most American consumers of olive oil are consuming a product that is flavorless, flawed and lacking in the health benefits they are desperately seeking. The Western Farm Press reported on November 30, 2009 that California Olive Council executive director Patricia Darragh has been sharply critical of a lack of federal standards for olive oil. “We have become a market for oil that is potentially adulterated or mislabeled,” Darragh said.

This is unfortunate given the health benefits of olive oil are extolled in the press every day. The benefits are an established, scientific fact. Most consumers get that. What they don’t understand is all olive oils are not the same. They are unaware and confused about buying and using this natural nectar to maximum its flavor and health benefits.

How can you be assured of buying quality extra virgin olive oil? To begin, the source of the oil is crucial. The mislabeled, adulterated oils from Europe referred to earlier are usually “bulk” olive oils. These are found commonly on the shelves of mega supermarkets. They are cheap. When you see the words “Imported” or “Packed from Italy,” run. The source of fruit for these oils can be from most anywhere in the Mediterranean, and perhaps, cut with other seed oils. Some bulk producers are now listing on the label the countries supplying the fruit. Moreover, the age of the oil is usually a mystery and the shipping and storage conditions are often suspect. Consequently flavor, freshness and health benefits are lacking.

Now here’s what you want. Quality can be found with estate extra virgin olive oils. With these olive oils the when and the where are known. The individual grower has sole control over the process from tree to bottle. The fruit is usually handpicked (some excellent oils are mechanically harvested). With these dedicated, hardworking folks there’s no sourcing fruit from another country. Their trees are family. The tender loving care is evident by their flavor and freshness.

Now, how do you know if it’s an estate olive oil? The answer often lies in the fine print… the harvest date. The front or back label should state the date or year of harvest. The label will read, “November 2009″ or simply the year. Some oils from Fall harvests are available early. These are referred to as new, nuovo or nouveau extra virgin olive oils. Intense pungency and pepperiness are their trademark, and super healthy. Most of the oil from the 2009 harvest, for example, become available in the early spring of 2010.

Why is the harvest date important? Olive oil is not like wine. It does not get better with age. The fresher the oil, the more flavorful and healthful it is. Oxidation and deterioration begins immediately after the fruit is picked from the tree, if not before. Olive oil should be consumed within 18-24 months from the harvest (18 months is better). In the northern hemisphere olives are harvested in the autumn, usually October, November and December. The southern hemisphere harvest occurs during our spring. Sometimes, the freshest available oils are from the southern hemisphere.

Alternative to the harvest date, a Best by (expiration) date is commonly listed on the bottle or label. Generally, this date is two years (or 18 months) after the harvest. For example, if the bottle indicates its best to use by 12/10,” then you know the olives were harvested in the autumn of 2008. Buyer beware, many gourmet retailers will gladly sell you a three or four year-old olive oil for $35-40.

To what regions of the globe should be you looking for these estate growers? Your options are vast and fun. Here’s a sampling of treasurers. First the earlier negative reference to “Imported from Italy,” should no way reflect poorly on the Italian estate growers. These passionate folks produce outstanding olive oil.  For ten years, my desert island oil (should I ever be stranded on one) is Ravidá from Sicily. Spain is now pouring out a flood of extraordinary oils. My good friend Rosa Vañó produces a steller portfolio at Castillo de Canena. Italy’s historic bulk supplier, Tunisia, now has an expanding group of estate growers producing and bottling quality olive oil. France has Jean-Benôit Hugues’ Castelas in Le Baux,Provence.

California has entered a oil boom and not with rigs. Chris Banthien’s Le Colline in Santa Cruz and Apollo’s Mistral have been my favorites for years. Australia (Rylstone), New Zealand, South Africa, and Chile (Olavé) are storming on to the scene with quality product that is worthy of a place in your pantry. So explore and have fun. Yet, always remember that Fresh is Best.

.
As founder and CEO of Crush and Press, Bill Sanders is a widely recognized authority on olive oil and wine.