Chez Thérèsa
‘Socca’ — is not a misspelling of “the beautiful game” but a traditional Niçois dish resembling a large, crispy pancake. Made from the most basic of ingredients: olive oil, chickpea flour, water, salt and pepper – it’s simple to make, and delicious. The best way to eat it? Steaming hot straight from the oven, with plenty of pepper and without cutlery.
Socca is cooked on a flat copper tray in a wood-fired oven until the top is golden. The copper is key to achieving the ideal consistency of a crispy top and a soft base.
Chickpeas arrived in Europe via Southern Italy and Spain courtesy of the Saracens in the Middle Ages. It was only natural that this exotic ingredient be combined with the locally produced olive oil.
Vendors with their mobile ovens were once commonplace on street corners, selling socca as a nutritious snack; popular with the working class with its modest price. While most of the street vendors are now gone, there remain numerous cafes and restaurants in the old town of Nice that still sell socca where it’s mainly eaten as a quick lunch, or as a snack with a glass of chilled rosé.
A popular spot for socca is at the Cours Saleya market where the tourists line up at the famous Chez Thérèsa. The ‘vendeuse’ is easy to spot at the eastern end of the market with her bright red lipstick; serving socca with one hand and holding a cigarette with the other. A word of advice: don’t go calling her Thérèsa. Despite her being referred to as such by numerous blogs and articles (including The New York Times) that is not actually her name — best to stick with ‘Madame’.
Socca can also be found at ‘Lou Pilha Leva’ (Place Centrale). This unfussy outdoor restaurant is besieged daily by long queues of hungry patrons eager to devour some socca as well as other Niçois specialties. The French owner has his sights on exporting the concept to the rest of the world starting with the United States. So, who knows, perhaps a piece of Nice, in the form of a slice of socca, may soon be competing with pizza on the streets of New York.
Related Articles
Jun. 20, 2023
Reviews Pour in for Starbucks Oleato
From indigestion to pleasantly nutty notes, customers in the United States and Europe have come to mixed conclusions about the olive oil-infused coffee beverages.
Feb. 13, 2024
Local Mils in France Are All the Rage
An ample harvest and high prices have led to a surge in activity and investments in community mills.
Jan. 30, 2024
Starbucks Expands Oleato Line to All U.S. Stores
The move comes as the company braces for the publication of disappointing economic data and one year after the line of beverages made its debut in Italy.
May. 30, 2023
Dakos, the Cretan Meze, Is Having a Moment
Tomato, feta cheese and olive oil on a barley rusk make dakos a summer dish few can resist.
Dec. 29, 2023
Iconic Lebanese Breakfast Receives UNESCO Recognition
Al-man’ouché, the Lebanese breakfast pastry seasoned with olive oil and traditional spices, has been added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.
Nov. 20, 2023
Languedoc Extra Virgin Olive Oil Receives PDO Certification
Made from the local Lucques and Olivière varieties, Languedoc becomes France’s ninth extra virgin olive oil to receive Protected Designation of Origin status.
Mar. 27, 2024
Olive Oil and Soparnik Are Indispensable for Croatians at Easter
Olive trees and extra virgin olive oil play important roles in Croatian Christians' celebrations of Holy Week, especially in the flagship dish, Soparnik.
Feb. 19, 2024
How One Producer Deals with Rising Volumes and A Shorter Harvest in France
In the South of France, the producer behind Mas des Bories manages a bumper harvest and a shorter window to mill.