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The artiÂcle describes a visit to the ancient city of Amos in Turkey, where the author and her husÂband explored the ruins and learned about the hisÂtory of the site. The owner of the nearby Dionysos hotel, Ahmet Åženol, has preÂserved the ancient traÂdiÂtion of olive tree culÂtiÂvaÂtion on his estate, which boasts around 1,500 olive trees proÂducÂing high qualÂity olive oil.
The ruins of the ancient city of Amos overÂlook Kumlubük bay on the Bozburun peninÂsula in south-west Turkey. My famÂily and I were guests at the nearby Dionysos hotel. One afterÂnoon my husÂband and I walked from our red-roofed villa through groves of fruit and olive trees to the south-east corÂner of the hotel grounds and on down the mounÂtain to Amos. It took us about twenty minÂutes going there, but longer to climb back up.
The uneven path is marked by red cirÂcles painted on rocks, and winds through a dense mixÂture of myrÂtle, gorse, holly, carob and wild olive with delÂiÂcate pink cyclaÂmen blooms pokÂing through the rocks here and there. We met nobody on the path, but Annabel Elsdon, the hotel’s guest relaÂtions manÂager, had told us that wild aniÂmals also use it, and we did see places where the earth had been dug up by wild boar in their search for food. Annabel told us that porÂcuÂpines, torÂtoises, foxes, hares and a pair of eagles also live on the mounÂtainÂside, but we didn’t see any of them on our walk, sadly.
When we arrived at Amos we found that we had the place to ourÂselves. We walked through groves of wild olive trees, which I imagÂined were descended from trees culÂtiÂvated by Amos’ origÂiÂnal inhabÂiÂtants. There were signs in Turkish and English explainÂing the hisÂtory of the place, and we read that the grey stone city walls we could see around the setÂtleÂment date from the Hellenistic period (323 BC — 31 BC) and were origÂiÂnally four meters high and two meters across. We strolled through the ancient ruins to the amphitheÂater which has 1,300 seats and panoramic views across the Mediterranean towards the disÂtant city of Marmaris.
Ahmet Åženol, the hosÂpitable owner of the Dionysos estate, creÂated the hotel out of the mounÂtainÂside — it took just nineÂteen months to excaÂvate the rocky terÂrain and comÂplete the hotel, buildÂing around mature olive trees as well as plantÂing new ones. Today his estate boasts around 1,500 olive trees, which proÂduce high qualÂity extra virÂgin olive oil. The day before our walk, Ahmet had told me that excaÂvaÂtions at Amos had found a third cenÂtury BC land rental agreeÂment on a stone tablet. The agreeÂment stated that the tenÂant had to plant an olive tree every year. As I sat in the stone terÂraces of the amphitheÂater lookÂing out across the Mediterranean I reflected that some valÂues are timeÂless, and Ahmet is conÂtinÂuÂing an ancient traÂdiÂtion.