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The conÂfusÂing marÂketÂing and pricÂing of olive oil in China makes it difÂfiÂcult for conÂsumers to difÂferÂenÂtiÂate between high-qualÂity and low-qualÂity prodÂucts, despite efforts to estabÂlish stanÂdards in 2009. Imported brands are often recÂomÂmended as the best choice, but the disÂparÂity in pricÂing and marÂketÂing tacÂtics still leave many Chinese conÂsumers bewilÂdered when tryÂing to make a purÂchase.
Olive oil reduces aging, is a frontÂline dietary defense against the ravÂages of heart disÂease, and tastes great to boot. That’s quite a repÂuÂtaÂtion to live up to, which leaves the averÂage Chinese conÂsumer in a bit of a bind. The bewilÂderÂing array of choices and conÂfusÂing marÂketÂing mesÂsages conÂfuse many Chinese conÂsumers about what to buy.
The probÂlem is that a mixÂture of overzealÂous marÂketÂing and bizarre pricÂing makes it hard for the uniniÂtiÂated to sepÂaÂrate the wheat from the chaff. Every brand of olive oil will boast about how healthy it is, how high in unsatÂuÂrated fats, how pure, and how high-qualÂity. But of course, that’s adverÂtisÂing for you. How about using the numÂbers to disÂtinÂguish between good and bad? Well, that might work if you could find – and then believe – the numÂbers. Chinese reports on the matÂter say that the labelÂing of most olive oil is conÂfusÂing and hard to underÂstand for the averÂage conÂsumer.
Everyone wants fresh olive oil, right? So take a look at the date of proÂducÂtion, which should be stamped someÂwhere on the label – except you’re not sure if the date you’re readÂing is the date that the olives were squeezed and pressed in (fill in counÂtry here) or if this is the date the whole thing was packÂaged in China. Same with the use-by date and other critÂiÂcal pieces of inforÂmaÂtion. In October 2009, China laid down some laws and stanÂdards for olive oil and its packÂagÂing, but what this Chinese jourÂnalÂist finds on shelves still leaves much to be desired.
But you pay for what you get, right? Well, you’d like to think so, but what can jusÂtify the difÂferÂence between a 1‑liter botÂtle of Italian virÂgin olive oil that costs 200 yuan (about US$29.40) and the 2.5‑liter olive-plus-sunÂflower oil that costs less than 20 yuan (US$2.94)? Having even a litÂtle olive in it seems to make cerÂtain cookÂing oils more expenÂsive than those that don’t. If olives are the magic ingreÂdiÂent that accounts for the price difÂferÂences, you might be able to imagÂine why the price of the preÂmium stuff is so dear. In other words, this is what marÂketÂing does best – inflate the prices all around – but whether or not that’s the best for the conÂsumer is another issue.
Some Chinese reports advise about how to pick and choose oil. Look at the clarÂity of the oil, they say. Does it look thick or thin? Is the color too dark or too light? Stick with the good brands, they say. More marÂketÂing, more conÂfuÂsion.
Of course, most of the good brands are imported, stocked in Carrefour or more upmarÂket groÂceries caterÂing to expats, who, with their higher incomes and Western backÂgrounds, make for a much difÂferÂent conÂsumer than the averÂage Chinese, who is going to have to do some heavy head-scratchÂing before they can figÂure it all out and find someÂthing they can stick with.