“Once, I dropped in and mentioned that I’d been to Baena to see the Núñez de Prado brothers. His eyes widened. It was as though I’d told a country Imam that I had just returned from Mecca.”
So reads a reference in Mort Rosenblum’s book “The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit” to the seventh generation of the Núñez de Prado dedicated to olive oil production.
The legendary family bought its first mill in 1795 but was mainly focused on wine-making until the phylloxera plague ruined its vineyards. It then turned to making olive oil with a passion that persists today.
Earlier this month, the European Program for Olive Oil Promotion hosted a group of English and French-speaking journalists in Córdoba. The itinerary included a visit to the family’s Santa Lucía organic olive oil plant in Baena, in the province´s south-east, to see a 1943-style mill and a modern one in use on the same premises.
Olive Oil Times was there and spoke to one of the brothers, Felipe Núñez de Prado.
The Flower of EVOO
There are more than a dozen olive oil mills in Baena, a municipality with about 21,000 inhabitants and an olive oil denomination of origin (D.O.) of the same name. But this mill is arguably the most emblematic and is visited by about 20,000 tourists a year, many of whom stay for an olive oil tasting or typical miller’s lunch.
The first thing that strikes you on arrival is that it is in the center of a small, white town, not in the surrounding sea of olive trees. Núñez de Prado says that’s how it always used to be in Andalusia. Further out lie the four family estates, which span 700ha and 100,000 drip-irrigated olive tress.
The next surprise is that as it’s harvest time, freshly hand-picked olive are pouring down a chute, starting their two-hour metamorphosis into a slightly bitter, rather fruity green juice that will be rested for about two months before bottling. But even allowing for the different varieties — Picudo (native to Baena) for its floral aroma, Picual for its bitterness and longevity, and Hojiblanca for its sweetness — the mix of green, red, brown and black is striking. Teresa Pérez, director of the Interprofesional del Aceite de Oliva Español, explains that when the olive colors are mixed like this it’s the best time to harvest.
There is another surprise in the room where the mill’s premium product — Flor de Aceite (flower of olive oil) — is being hand-labeled and numbered to enhance traceability. Eleven kilos of olives are needed to obtain a liter of this unfiltered EVOO, which has a maximum acidity of 0.2 percent. Although a 500ml bottle sells from €12 – 22 ($16 – 29) in its far-ranging destinations, the on-premise price is just €5 ($6.65). And, apart from adjustment for inflation in export markets, the family, which has a turnover of €5 million ($6.6m) on its olive oil operations, says its olive oil prices have not increased in three decades.
The label says the 2011 Flor de Aceite has a wide range of fruity and floral aromas — hints of green olives, grass, oranges, lemons, and apples — and a slightly bitter and spicy aftertaste.
While the First Cold Pressed Núñez de Prado EVOO is extracted using hydraulic presses, the Flor de Aceite is a free-run oil that seeps from olive paste that has been interspersed in a high pile of grass mats and gradually squeezed. This alone is a stand-out image, as is the sight of three huge, rotating granite cones that first crush the olives to make the paste.