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In Andalucia, March is a time for prunÂing olive trees, with Julian Hernandez Garcia demonÂstratÂing the process in his famÂiÂly’s grove in Huescar. The prunÂing is done with care and preÂciÂsion to ensure conÂsisÂtent and proÂducÂtive yields, with the reward being a botÂtle of extra virÂgin olive oil pressed from the groves.
The month of March in Andalucia means more than just reflectÂing on the winÂter that wasn’t or which recipes are back in play now that spring vegÂetaÂbles bring new options. A recently sunny day brought me to an olive grove in Huescar to disÂcover the imporÂtance of prunÂing olive trees.
Today’s lesÂson in prunÂing comes courÂtesy of Julian Hernandez Garcia, a Huescar native whose olive grove has been passed down for three genÂerÂaÂtions.
The trees themÂselves are over a hunÂdred years old, and some of the only remainÂing Cornicabra this far south of Toledo, he tells me. My pulse quickÂens the moment I see the gas powÂered chainÂsaws leavÂing the trunk of his car, and stops dead as he hands me a set of prunÂing shears.
I am instructed by Julian to folÂlow him from one tree to the next, clipÂping any branches large enough to be used for fireÂwood.
The grove is small at 53 trees, but it is a labor of love done not for profit, but for pleaÂsure. It’s someÂthing you could almost forÂget about until the time has come for the olives to be harÂvested and brought to the co-op just down the road.
I take a break from the prunÂing to help Julian’s brother-in-law, Raphael, toss the smaller branches on top of what has become an alarmÂingly large fire of olive branches. Raphael interÂrupts me mid-photo attempt to tell me that the burnÂing of the olive branches is illeÂgal; I underÂstand his southÂern Spanish accent, but not his tone. As a preÂcauÂtion, I stop takÂing phoÂtos.
Breathing in the fumes of burnÂing olive branches is remÂiÂnisÂcent of inhalÂing cigÂaÂrette smoke, only less rewardÂing. The smoke stings my unproÂtected eyes and leaves my brows and lids feelÂing a bit crispy.
While refuÂelÂing the chainÂsaw, Julian goes into more detail. As a rule, less is more, espeÂcially in smaller groves such as this one. The key to conÂsisÂtent and proÂducÂtive yields is the result of prunÂing only the trees which need it to proÂmote benÂeÂfiÂcial growth. Focusing on the healthy branches allows the nutriÂents to go where they will be most cost-effecÂtive and proÂduce the best fruit.
Julian prefers to prune softly every year while neighÂborÂing grove ownÂers will alterÂnate every other year for prunÂing. Personal prefÂerÂence appears to trump all in these parts. However, in larger groves, the amount of money availÂable to pay workÂers to prune the trees helps to dicÂtate the freÂquency and severÂity of the trees pruned.
For my mild assisÂtance, I am rewarded with a botÂtle of the extra virÂgin olive oil that is pressed from the colÂlecÂtion of groves here in Huescar (includÂing Julian’s).
Driving home, I note how the smoke from the burnÂing olive branches has thorÂoughly perÂmeÂated my clothÂing. I look over at the botÂtle of local olive oil and realÂize the smoke from those burnÂing branches holds a deliÂcious reward.